Mukluks picture help

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

#1-chain 26

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

#2~ those first 26 double crochet of row one.

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

3~ do not turn and work in top of just completed row. Instead crochet in bottom of starting chain...

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

#4 ~see the corner developing.

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

#5 ~ stitch marker in last stitch of row 1.

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

#6 ~ Row 2 dc in each dc.

Little Pillows Hat-beginning (for Saidy)

#7~ Row 2: Double Crochet in each dc around

Toe Closing - for Autchristine (pictures are not in correct order, sorry.)

Added pictures of Toe Closing on Baby Mukluks
http://sandyfroglegs.blogspot.com/2009/02/baby-mukluks.html

Picket Fence Scarf

Picket Fence Scarf

You will need:
One skein of TOFUtsies SWTC sock yarn
100g/425m
I used #872 of the Limited Edition Collection.
www.soysilk.com
(or equal amount of sock weight yarn.)

Crochet hook size E

*Note ~ I am using Red Heart Soft Yarn in Toast, on my scanner to show some close ups. *Note ~ Please look through my other designs for helpful links to stitches used.




Starting chain of 37,
Row One: Double Crochet in third chain from hook.
Double Crochet in each remaining chains across .
You will have (36) Double Crochets .
Chain 3 and turn.

Row Two: Skip first chain.
*Double Crochet in next Double Crochet, chain one &
skip next Double Crochet, Double Crochet in next
Double Crochet. Repeat from * across, ending with
Double Crochet in last Double Crochet.
(19 Double Crochets. 18 chain one spaces.)
Chain 3 and turn.

Row Three: *Double crochet in chain one space.
Double Crochet in Double Crochet.
Repeat from * across . (36 Double Crochet.)
Chain one and turn.

Repeat Rows Two and Three, ending with a Row Three.
Weave, Hide yarn tails in work.


Copywrite of Sandyfroglegs Designs 2009

Frog Head Hat

Frog Head Hat for newborns.

((Please look through the other patterns in my blog for helpful
links to crochet stitches used.)

Green Yarn. (I used Simply Soft)
Red Yarn (I used Simply Soft Wine--it is best to use the same
type/size yarn for both hat and rim.)
~If you use a thicker yarn-the hat will be larger.
Crochet hook size “G”.
~If you use a larger Crochet Hook-the hat will be larger.
Yarn sewing needle to sew on eyes.
Eyes (I used Easy-Sew Eyes in size 18mm--but yarn will work.)

(Chain two at beginning of each row counts as your first Double Crochet in that row.)

Row One: Chain 3, slip stitch to form a circle.
Chain two, 13 Double Crochet in Circle. (14 double crochet)
Slip stitch to top of Chain two at end of row..

Row Two: Chain two. Continuing in same direction
(you are working in rounds, no turning for rows.) Double Crochet
in same stitch as chain two. Two Double Crochet in each
remaining 13 stitches around ( 28 Double Crochet.)
Slip stitch into to of chain two at end of row.

Row Three: Chain two. Two Double Crochet in same
stitch as beginning Chain 2.
*One double Crochet in each of the next two stitches.
Two Double Crochet in next stitch.
*Repeat this around. (one double crochet in “each of next two
stitches,” then two double crochet in next “one stitch.”)
Slip Stitch into top of chain two at end of row.
(You should have around 39 Double Crochet--but if you
have one less or one more-no worries, it still works.)

Row Four through Ten: Chain 2. One Double Crochet
in each stitch around. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 at end of
each row.

Row Eleven: Chain 2. Double Crochet in each stitch
around, slip stitch to chain two at end of row, tie off.
(leave at least a 4 inch tail.)

Row Twelve: Using red yarn, slip stitch just before you tied
off the green. Work over the green yarn tail to hide as you work.
Single crochet in each stitch around. Slip stitch to
beginning stitch at end of row. Tie off .
Leave at least a 4 inch tail to weave/hide yarn tail in brim using crochet hook are yarn sewing needle.

Make eye hoods using the bear ears pattern in my blog here:
http://sandyfroglegs.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pattern-bear-ears-for-newborn-hats.html

Attach ears /eyes as seen in picture of frog head hat.

This is a good way to use green yarn for charity hat gifting. Baby nurses discourage using greens and yellows because they do not usually compliment the skin tones, but this is a way to use those greens and have them acceptable.

Copywrite of Sandyfroglegs Designs 2009

1st New Moon of Spring Choker

These were crocheted using my
1st New Moon of Spring Choker design directions
(in honor of the Cherokee Celebration that takes place in March.)
I substituted a "G" crochet hook. The brown one is made with
Bernat Matrix in "Natural" and Red Heart Soft Yarn in "Toast."
I used a appropriate size bead, pulled through both ends as a closure.
The shiny choker is made with Caron Pizazz in "Southwest."

Copyright: Sandyfroglegs Designs 2009

1st New Moon of Spring Choker

Material Needed-
Thread/ Sport Yarn/ Sock Yarn--I used Luster Sheen -it is a size 3, in color “Natural.”
(about one ounce.)
“F” Crochet hook.

Stitches used-
Ch-Chain.
Sc- Single Crochet.
Dc- Double Crochet.
Sl st-Slip Stitch.
**********************************************************

FIRST: Ch 40. Sc in second ch from hook, and in next 5 chains (6 sc total.)
(the 6 sc is the beginning of your choker--the remainder of the chains will be your “tie.”)

Ch 6 and turn. Sl st into 12th ch from hook (the 1st of the just crocheted 6 sc.)

SECOND: Ch 3 and turn. ***Dc four times around the “6 sc ch bar.”
Sl st to the last st on the “ch 6 bar” you are working on..

THIRD: Ch 6, turn. Sl st to 12th chain from hook. Ch 3 and turn.

FOURTH:- Repeat from *** for a total of 16 group/sections.
At end of 16th group/section, instead of chain 3, chain 35. Tie off.

Grab first and second sections and gently stretch choker apart so
that they will lay against the skin smoothly.
Tie a little knot at the end of each of your “tie” chains to help prevent fraying.

Some may prefer the reverse side of the choker to the front side.
***THIS size will only fit about a 16 inch neck.
Sections as well as beginning and end
chain length will be easy to add in increase the size.

Copyright: Sandyfroglegs Designs 2009

Baby Sheild Moccasins

I was asked to create a option for the below Baby Mukluk's
to change them to a traditional Moccasin look. I hope the Shield
will help those seeking this look and also eliminate the Fpdc / Bpdc that
some are not familiar with.
Use the Baby Mukluk pattern-but on the last row of the ankle instead of
the Fpdc / Bpdc--simply Dc in each stitch then tie off /weave in ends.

The shield is a simple circle (such as used to start a granny square.)
Chain 3. Dc 15 times in third chain from hook (16 Double Crochet to create the circle) Pull your beginning yarn tail tight to close the hole in the circle. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3 to closed. Tie off/weave ends.
Cut the number of yarn's ties desired to about 6 inches each (I used two
for each shield.) Use a large eye needle to attach the shield to the side cuff.
Tie/knot on outside of shield --cut tails so that they are the length you like
hanging from the little shield's.

(c) Sandyfroglegs Designs 2009

Baby Mukluks

Materials needed:
*Worsted weight yarn such as Red Heart Supersaver
or Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice.
*Size H crochet hook.
*Large Eye Needle to sew up heal.
Abbreviations used:
Single Crochet - Sc.
Chain- Ch
Double Crochet- Dc.
Front Post Double Crochet- Fpdc.
Back Post Double Crochet- Bpdc.
((**See directions on my other free patterns for helpful links to stitches.))


Starting Chain: Leave a 12 or so inch tail to sew up heal, Chain 13.
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each remaining ch (12 sc.)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each chain (12 sc.)
Row 3 - 11: Repeat row 2.
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each chain (12 sc.)
(you have a square of 12 sc and 12 rows.)

Toe closing: at end of Row 12, pivot work to it’s left to close that side
of your square to form the toe section. Gather the toe closes by Inserting
your hook into the end of each row, hook yarn and pull through each
rows end stitch.
Keep all loops on hook until you have a loop on hook for each row.
Hook one more loop and pull that one through all
loops on hook.. Hook a loop once more and pull through to close the
toe section up tight.

Top ridge: Sc the first 6 stitches from each side to closed for top of foot.
Push work to middle of crochet hook or use stitch marker while you sew
up heel.

To sew up heal, put beginning yarn tail in large eye needle. Sew from top
edge on back down to heal. Turn and weave yarn back up to top
edge of heal. You will then be crocheting over the tail to hide it in the ankle.

Ankle.
Row 1: Ch 2- Dc in each stitch around the ankle, hiding your tail while
crocheting. Slip stitch to top of Ch 2.
Row 2: Ch 2. Dc in each dc. Slip stitch to 1st dc.
Row 3: *Fpdc around first Dc. Bpdc around next Dc. *Repeat to end .
Slip Stitch to close, tie off and weave in tail to hide.

((**the 1st and 2nd rows of ankle can be different colors to give a more mukluk look. Tie on new colors with a slip knot--hide yarn tails as you crochet.)

Side Tassels:
Helpful video for adding the tassel (adding it fringe style.)
http://www.ehow.com/video_4438404_attaching-yarn-how-fringe-afghan.html
Tassels (Fringe): Cut four six inch lengths of yarn for each bootie (8 total.)
Take the four pieced of yarn, hold evenly together. Find the center.
Find the middle of the side of a bootie--using crochet hook, put hook
Around the middle top Fpdc or Bpdc, hook the middle of the cut 4 yarns.
Pull the middle through around the stitch. Now using hook or fingers reach over
and grab your “8” yarn ends and pull those ends through the loop . Tug tight.

Repeat for 2nd bootie--making sure that your tassel’s will be on the opposite outside middles of each foot. Trim Tassels evenly.

© Sandyfroglegs Designs 2009

Little Pillows Booties

Materials-
For Newborn Size:
~Baby yarn or light 3 yarn
(I used Bernat Baby Jacquards in Berries and Cream. Done per
Instructions with this yarn will be about 3 ½ inches long.)
~Size “E/3.50MM” Crochet Hook.
~Stitch Marker.
~(Optional--large eye needle to weave in yarn at end.)


For Baby Size
~Worsted Weight or Medium 4 yarn.
(I used Red Heart Super Saver in Soft White Fleck. Done per
Instructions with this yarn will be about 4 ½ inches long.)
Size “H/8-5.00MM” Crochet Hook.
~Stitch Marker.
~(Optional--large eye needle to weave in yarn at end.)



Helpful Notes
~Can also be enlarged by using a longer starting chain and adding that extra length into the row count. ~Hide beginning yarn tail by working over it. ~ *Move Stitch Marker to last stitch worked at end of each row. ~ Check through my other patterns for helpful links explaining crochet stitches.

Abbreviations-
Ch - Chain.
Hdc - Half Double Crochet
Sc - Single Crochet.
Dhdc - Decrease Half Double Crochet.
Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, yarn over hook and pull through stitch
(3 loops on hook). Insert yarn in next stitch, yarn over hook and pull through
Stitch (4 loops on hook). Yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops on hook
(you have decreased one stitch off your project.) When “twice “ is in pattern,
repeat those instructions again.
Dsc- Decrease Single Crochet.
Insert hook in stitch, yarn over hook and pull through stitch (2 loops on hook.)
Insert hook in next stitch-yarn over hook and pull through stitch (3 loops on hook),
Yarn over hook and pull through 3 loops on hook.
Sl st- Slip Stitch.
Fpdc-Front Post Double Crochet.
Bpdc- Back Post Double Crochet.

Instructions-
Row One: Ch 17. Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in 14 ch. Do not turn-rotate
and Hdc in the bottom of the 15 “beginning” ch.
Place stitch marker in the Hdc you just crocheted.

(the following was added on May 24 2009 to help explain the
beginning/bottom of the booties!)Look at a pillow case opening.
Imagine that it has a zipper and you are crocheting around the edge
of the zipper with it zipped up. The Chain 17 is your closed zipper.
That hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook counts is your first hdc.
Hdc in the 14 chains on the one side of your zipper, then continue
around the "end" of your pillow case/zipper, to the opposite side of
your beginning chain for your bottom 15 hdc.

In row 2 you are crocheting all the way around that
pillow case/zipper into each of the 30 hdc's around.

Row Two: Hdc in 30 Hdc.
(Be sure you are working in the top of that 1st Hdc and not its side.)
(You are working on the Right side/Out side of the sock/bootie,
tuck work accordingly.)
(*Move stitch marker to “last stitch made” at end of each row.)
Row Three and Four: Repeat Row Two.

Row Five: Dhdc in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc in 26 hdc.
Row Six: Dhdc in next 2 stitches; twice. Hdc in 24 Hdc.

(Next row is single crochet)
Row Seven: Dsc in next 2 st; twice. Sc in 22 st.
Row Eight: Dsc in 2 st; twice. Dc in 20 st.

Row Nine: Sl St in 1st st. Ch 2. Move stitch marker to top of ch 2.
Dc in same stitch as Chain 2 and in remaining 22 stitches.
Sl st to top of ch 2. Chain 2-move stitch marker to top of ch 2.

Row Ten: *Fpdc around 1st stitch. Bpdc around next stitch.
Repeat from * around for a total of 23 stitches. End with Fpdc.
Sl st to 1st Fpdc. (The beginning ch 2 will be un-worked.) Chain 2.
Row Eleven: Fpdc around Fpdc‘s. Bpdc around Bpdc’s.
Sl st to first Fpdc. ( 23 Fpdc‘s and Bpdc‘s)
(leave the beginning ch 2 un worked.)

Tie off leaving a yarn tail to weave into/hide in your work.

© 2009 Sandyfroglegs Designs

Hot Cross Bun Hat

Hot Cross Bun Hat
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_cross_buns

*Worsted Weight or Sport Weight Yarn
*Hats will come out different sizes with different yarns. Try to accommodate your sizing to your yarn being used. (Multi version is a Red Heart yarn. Bone color is Simply Soft yarn.)
**Size “H” crochet hook .
***Stitch marker.
Notes:
~Experience in crocheting the Granny Square helpful.
~Hat is worked in one direction, do not turn at end/beginning
of rows.
~Ch 2 at beginning of a row counts as 1 Dc.
~End of each row for hat top is Sl St closed .
~Body of hat is done in continuous rounds, use stitch marker to locate
end/beginning of rows.
~If you desire Hot Cross Bun Hat to be larger--simply increase the number
of rows on the top of hat until desired size is achieved, and add rows to
body until desired length reached.
In this way you can convert the pattern to a child or adult size hat.
By doing this you can also change the yarn and hook size to
accommodate your personal preferences.

Abbreviations:
DC : Double Crochet
Ch : Chain
Sc: Single Crochet
Sl St : Slip Stitch
St / St’s : Stitch, Stitch’s

Directions for newborn size hat:

Beginning: Ch 3. Sl St in 1st ch to form ring.

Row One: Ch 2. Eleven Dc in ring (12 dc.)

Row Two: Ch 2. 2 Dc, Ch 1, 3 Dc in same st as Ch 2.
*Dc in next 2 st’s. 3 Dc, Ch 1, 3 Dc in next St.
Repeat from “* “ twice more. Dc in last 2 st’s.
Sl St to top of Ch 2.

Row Three: Ch 2. Dc in next 2 St’s.
*3 Dc, Ch 1, 3 Dc in corner Sc. 1 Dc in next 7 st’s.
Repeat from “*” twice more. 3 Dc, Ch 1, 3 Dc in corner St.
Dc in last 4 St’s. Sl St to top of Ch 2.

Row Four: Ch 2. Dc in each St around . Sl St to top of ch 2.

.

Row Five: Ch 1. Place Stitch Marker in top of Ch 1.
Move St marker to last St at end of each row to keep
track of rows (you will now be working in continuous rounds so your hat will not have a joining ridge/line where the rows meet.)
Sc in same st at Ch 1. Sc in each st of row. Move Stitch Marker
to last sc of this row.
*your hat should measure “around” 5 ½ inches across. This should fit the average newborn size head. The top of the hat will be your “stretch.”

~Do not ch at end/beginning of rows.
~Works in same directions (right side of hat.)

Row Six- - Sc in each st. Move st marker to last st at end of row.

Rows 7 - 22: Repeat row six.

At end of row 22, do not move st marker to last st.
Sl st to st with stitch Marker.
Cut off leaving 6 inch tail-yarn on hook and pull through last loop on yarn.
Weave in end with smaller hook or needle.

© 2009 Sandyfroglegs Designs

Baby Clam Shell Booties

~Red Heart Super Saver (Medium 4)
(The color of bootie with ties - Multi-Ocean.
Solid version - Pale Plum.)

~Size *4.00 mm hook
(*this will be a E, F, or G--depending on your hook brand.)

Notes-
~You will be working on the inside (WS: Wrong Side) of your bootie
until you reach the cuff.
~Work in is same direction (do not turn) until beginning of cuff.


Crochet Stitches -
~St- Stitch /stitches
~Ch- Chain:
http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/ss/stchain.htm
~Hdc- Half Double Crochet:
http://crochet.about.com/library/blhalfdouble.htm
~Sl St - Slip Stitch:
http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/qt/slst.htm
~Dc- Double Crochet:
http://crochet.about.com/library/bldoublecrochet.htm
~End and weave ends:
http://crochet.about.com/library/bl_weave_ends.htm
~Sc- Single Crochet:
http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/ss/sc.htm

~Dhdc 3 stitches- Decrease Half Double Crochet over next three stitches:
(I could not find a online reference so I hope my directions will explain--- Yarn over hook. Insert hook in next stitch. Yarn over hook and pull through stitch. “Stop.” Now--insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over hook and pull through. Insert your hook in third stitch and pull through stitch. Complete Dhdc 3 stitches- yarn over hook and pull through all 5 loops on hook. You have now decreased 3 stitches into 1.)

Row One: Ch three-sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Ch two (counts as first HDC) Hdc 11 times in ring (12 Hdcs.)
Slip stitch to top of first Hdc to close row.
Chain two (do not turn, continue crocheting in the same direction.)

Row Two: Hdc in same st as ch two, Hdc two times in each remaining st.
(24 Hdc.) Sl st to top of ch 2.

Row Three: Ch 2. Hdc in same stitch. One Hdc in next st.
*Two Hdc in next st. One Hdc in next st.
*Repeat to end of row. (36 Hdc.) Sl st to top of ch 2.

Row Four: Ch 2. One Hdc in next ten st. Hdc two times in next stitch.
One hdc in next ten st. Hdc two times in next stitch. One hdc in next ten
st. Hdc 2 times in next stitch. One hdc in remaining 3 st.
(10-2-10-2-10-2-3. Total 40 hdc counting beginning ch 2 as hdc.)

Row Five: Ch two. One hdc in next two st. Hdc two times in next st.
One hdc in next 15 st. . Dhdc over next 3 stitches. One hdc in next 15 st.
Hdc two times in next st. Hdc in remaining 3 st. Sl St to top of ch 2.

Row Six: Ch two. Hdc in next ten st. Dhdc over 3 stitches , 7 times.
Hdc in next ten st. Sl st to top of first Hdc.

Row Seven: Ch 2. . Hdc in next nine st.
Dhdc over 3 stitches, 3 times. Hdc in remaining 10 st.
Sl st to top of ch 2.

Cuff:
Row Eight: ch 1, turn (Right side of bootie now.) Sc in each st. (ch 1 + 22 sc.)
Sl st to beginning sc.

Row Nine - Twelve: working in same direction on right side of
Bootie, ch1. Sc in 22 st. Sl st to beginning ch 1.

Clam Shell Edging at ankle:
Ch three. Four Dc in same st as ch three.
Sl st in next sc st.
*Skip two sc, 5 Dc in next st. Sl st in next st.
Repeat * four more times.
Sl st to top of first dc. End and weave ends.

***Optional Version :
To add ties--
Row Nine: Ch 3, Dc in each st. Sl st to top of ch 3. ( Ch 3 + 22 Dc.)
Rows Ten : Ch 1, Sc in each st (ch 1 + 22 sc) Sl st to beginning ch 1.

Add Clam Shell Edging per directions above.

***Laces/Ties for optional version:
Lace One: Chain 35. Attach with Slip stitch to center Dc of right
side of first bootie. Chain 35, End.
Lace Two: Repeat for second booties, making sure to slip stitch on
left side so that when worn the ties are on the outside “side” of each bootie.
Weave the laces in and out of the Dc until the meet on opposite side
of booties and tie into a bow.

© 2008 Sandyfroglegs Designs

Little Pillows Hat

*The top corners of the hat will give the illusion of ears when on the head.

**The picture: The blue hat is written below.
The Purple hat used worsted weight yarn. No nose. Added ears (directions in my blog)
being careful not to sew them through to the back of the hat (just the front layer.)
The gray hat is adult size, using Half Double Crochet with a interspersed
Crossover Stitch (skip one hdc. hdc in next 2 stitches--then cross over with the third
stitch into the skipped stitch space.)

Notes:
*The hat directions written for Newborn size.
*Can be adjusted to any size-including
adult, by chaining “half” the length needed
to circle the wearers head.
(You will want the hat to be snug, so you will
want the starting chain a bit shorter than
your measurement.)

*You will be working on the outside of your
hat the entire time. Push your work at the
starting so that you are on the outside
(tuck the inside of the hat accordingly.)

*Use a crochet hook in the size that works
with your yarn--adjusting the size by measuring
the starting chain , and top-to-bottom length.

*If you do not plan on adding a nose and eyes--
continue row 2 & add rim, to desired length.

*Personalize by using different stitches in body
of hat.

Materials:
I used a *Boye size G crochet hook &
*Caron Simply Soft yarn in Soft Blue.
The eyes are Darice brand *Easy-Sew Eyes in 18mm,
and I used a *sewing needle to attach.
*Stitch marker (if you do not have stitch markers,
a piece of yarn , paper clip, or wire earring will work.)


Directions:
The ball I used to display is 21 inches around.
Chain 28 (my chain measured 7 inches.)

Row 1:
Double Crochet in the 3d chain from the hook
and in each remaining chain (26 Double Crochet)
Do not flip --instead turn the corner, working in the
reverse side of your starting chain, Double Crochet
in the 26 chain spaces. Place your stitch marker in the
last Double Crochet on your hook.

Row 2:
Double Crochet in each Double Crochet around, moving
stitch marker to last Double Crochet made when reaching
end of row.

Row 3-5:
Repeat Row 2.

Row 6: Choose the side you would like to be the front
of your hat.
Fold hat so that you know where the middle of the front is.
Double Crochet to the middle. In the middle chain do a
Popcorn stitch of 5 Double Crochet
(use link to see visual directions for this stitch.)
http://crochet.about.com/library/blpopcrn.htm

Then continue in Double Crochet to end of row-
moving stitch marker to last Double Crochet on your hook.

At this time, take your sew-on-eyes and attach them on
the 5th row On each side of your nose. I attached mine
to the 4 Double Crochet measuring from the nose of either
side to insure they were evenly spaced.

If doing a larger or smaller hat--you will want to change the row and eye
position to comply with your hat size.

Row 7 - 11:
Repeat row 2 (my hat now measures 5 ½ inches.)

At end of row 11- slip stitch to the last Double Crochet
of row 10, chain 2 and place your stitch marker on the
chain 2.


Row 12:
http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa060797.htm
Front Post Double Crochet in first Double Crochet.
Back Post Double Crochet in next Double Crochet.
Continue this pattern (alternating the Front Post
Double Crochet and Back Post Double Crochet) work to
the end of the row. Slip stitch to spot with stitch maker
-chain 2 and move your stitch marker to Chain 2.

Row 13: Front Post Double Crochet in Front Post Double
Crochet. Back Post Double Crochet in Back Post Double
Crochet to end of row.
Slip Stitch and tie off/end. My hat measures 6 inches from
top to bottom and 6 ½ inches from side to side.

(when crocheting a adult hat--use your ruler--top to bottom of
8 inches will be a good size so that when you pull in on the
corners give the illusion of ears.)

© Sandyfroglegs Designs

Sandyfroglegs Fingerless Gloves

*Oct.20, 2008. A correction has been made to the pattern.
(Row 5 was changed to reflect that it is Row 8.)


**Size small and size(large)
Try on as you crochet and increase the
beginning chain and overall width as needed
for larger sizes.

Materials:
Sock yarn
F/5-3.75MM Crochet hook
Stitch markers

Special Notes:
Leave a long enough tail after ch 32 (38), to sew first dc
row closed.
Slip stitch rows closed except rows 8-10 (12) which will be
used for the thumb space.
Crochet in same direction, except for the rows where
you turned to leave the thumb hole

Stitches Used:
Ch=Chain
DC=Double Crochet
FPdc=Front Post Double Crochet
Sl st=Slip Stitch
Esc=Extended Single Crochet
BPdc=Back Post Double Crochet

Instructions:
Ch 32 (38)
Foundation Row: DC in 3rd chain from hook.
DC in next chain and in each chain across
(Size small 30 DC. Size large 36 DC)

Rows 1-3:*FPdc around first stitch, BPdc
around next stitch. Rep from * around.
Sl st to first st.

Row 4-7:Esc in each stitch around. Sl st to first st.
Mark beginning of each round with stitch marker.

Row 8-10 (12):Esc in each stitch across.
DO NOT slip stitch row closed. Turn at end of each row
instead of continuing in rounds to leave open thumb space.

Row 11 (13):Esc in each stitch around. Sl St to first stitch

Rows 12-17 (14-19):Continuing to work in rounds, Esc in each
stitch around. Mark beginning of each round with stitch marker.

Row 18 (20):DC in each stitch around.(30, 36 DC).
Sl St to first stitch.

Row 19-25 (21-27):*FPdc around first stitch, BPdc around
next st. Rep from * around. Sl st to first st. Tie off.
(Note:additional rounds may be worked until wrist
is desired length).

Thumb detail (optional):Attach yarn to thumb space.
Work one row of dc around, evenly spaced.
Work one row of FPdc/BPdc around. Fasten off.

© 2007 Sandy “Sandyfroglegs” Scofield